Trekking Tales: Tiger's Nest
The iconic Tiger's Nest Monastery, or Taktsang, is more than just a sight to see in Bhutan. Even those on the quickest of tours through the country find time to visit. Why? To witness its breathtaking beauty perched high on the side of a cliff in the Paro valley. For the past seven weeks, the monastery has beckoned to me from across the valley in Drukgyel, its illuminated buildings against the mountain serving as a nightly reminder of the adventure that awaited once my husband arrived so that we could experience the journey together.
To embark on this journey, you must first navigate to the Taktsang Trail starting point. Be aware that the ticket office is tucked away in a corner of the car park with little to no signage, although a new visitor centre is under construction. Note that a ticket is required only for entry into the monastery itself; the lookout point can be reached free of charge. Also, don't forget to rent a walking stick for added stability, a wise investment for the descent, especially if your knees – like mine – have strong opinions about all the steps.
Here are some fast facts and tips to prepare for the trek:
Distance: 6.4 km round trip
Total Ascent: 520 meters (1,700 feet)
Highest Elevation: 3,120 meters (10,232 feet)
Location: 900m above the valley, 6 km from Drukgyel or 12 km from Paro town
Time: Allow 5 to 7 hours for the entire visit.
The views keep getting better so keep taking photos. Crowds usually form at the first viewpoint, but you can take even better photos if you keep going lower and closer to the monastery.
Good hiking boots/shoes are a must. Yes, the locals do the climb wearing very basic footwear, but shoes and a walking stick were a saviour for me.
Don’t believe the hype about getting there early. We arrived at 9.30 am in mid-April, and the car park was already full, but the trail was relatively quiet for most of the journey up.
Sunscreen and a hat. There are parts where there isn’t much shade, so check the weather for the day you are traveling.
Bring a water bottle to refill at designated places along the way. We had a UV-powered self-sanitising water bottle which gave an added level of comfort in making sure the water was safe to drink.
While the climb typically takes about 3 hours, my husband Tarmon and I took a leisurely 7, with breaks for coffee on the ascent and on the descent, lunch and a well-deserved beer. While some claim to conquer the climb in just 2 hours, I maintain that such feats are reserved for the exceptionally fit or those with a penchant for overstating the truth!
For those unable to trek, horses are available for rent up to the midway point along the trail. However, we opted to make the journey on foot due to the significance of the pilgrimage and out of respect for the animals … who surely don’t deserve to carry our weight!
Nestled halfway up the mountain is a café that offers a welcome respite, providing coffee and stunning views before the final ascent to the monastery.
As we traversed the trail, adorned with fluttering prayer flags serenaded by the wind, chance encounters with fellow travellers added depth to our experience. Greg of Cleveland panted about altitude sickness whilst Sanjay, a former Indian telecom CEO proudly informed us that he is on the board of Saudi Telecom.
Navigating the path, we noticed the longer, winding route taken by the donkeys (hint: it’s shorter to take the human path), a reminder of the effort behind each cup of coffee served at the Taktsang café. In the second half of the ascent, you share the path with the horses as they carry supplies up to the monastery – so be aware of the horse poo on the trail. Upon reaching the temple gates, we were greeted by a Bhutanese elder, whose infectious joy set the tone for our encounter within. Inside the temple, you present your ticket and belongings to the security guards for storage. Don’t let their uniforms fool you; they have a bit of sass, displayed when I collected my walking stick. One responded with a chuckle, "Oh, it’s the big one!"
Amidst the grandeur of the monastery and the mountains, I couldn't help but feel small in the vastness of it all – a humbling realisation that brought a sense of peace and wonder. It’s hard to believe how anyone could build something so majestic on this cliff, especially back in 1692 when the monastery was first established.
In the end, hiking to Tiger's Nest is not just about reaching a destination; it's about the journey – much like life – and the profound sense of awe in the presence of something greater than ourselves. Looking out over the valley, my husband summed it up best when he said, looking out from Tigers Nest, “Everything else is so big, and I don't matter, and I love that."
