Healthcare in the Himalayas:
So, picture this: it’s last Wednesday evening, and I'm feeling like crap, lying in bed, struck down with the flu and my phone pings. It’s my husband so I am duty bound (obviously through our marriage vows) to tell him just how sick I am….
Dramatic, much? Maybe a tad. I may have even told Tarmon to prepare a Manidhar – those tall white prayer flags you see scattered across Himalayan ridgelines as a remembrance for the deceased. But hey, when you're feeling under the weather, a little dramatic flair is just par for the course.
Before you roll your eyes and mutter something about 'man flu', let’s agree on one thing: being sick is lonely. Time slows down; fever and fatigue fog your mind, and it feels like an eternity before you're back on your feet. But fear not, dear reader, for I've gathered some tips to ease the journey to recovery if you ever fall ill in Bhutan.
Bhutan, famed for its Gross National Happiness and stunning landscapes, isn't immune to disease. Travel long enough, and you're bound to catch something. This isn't my first rodeo – my first week in Drukgyel saw me battling a harsh bout of dysentery, that I'll spare you finer the details on – suffice to say I wasn’t going anywhere so my first aid kit and calls to the Dr at International SOS attended to that. Fast forward to my recent flu episode, and I found myself experiencing Bhutan's healthcare system firsthand.
Let’s talk about Bhutan’s healthcare scene. Healthcare is enshrined in the country's Constitution, cool huh. It guarantees free primary healthcare for all its people, and yes that includes visitors. Since the 1970s, the Bhutanese government has provided free universal healthcare to its citizens. This means that every resident has access to basic medical services without any cost.
Each district, known as dzongkhags, boasts at least one government hospital, along with smaller healthcare centers dotted across the country. My journey began at the Drukgyel Basic Health Unit.
The Drukgyel center, open from 9 to 3, sits nestled on a side road off the main village road, but fear not – it's well signposted. A classic Bhutanese-style government building greeted me, with clean interiors and doorways labelled in both English and Dzongkha. There's no reception desk, but the staff are courteous, and as long as you alert the nurse to your presence, they'll call you in when it's your turn. I sat down with the nurse and like at home we discussed my previous health issues, took my vitals and noticed that my blood pressure was a bit high – come back next week to have that checked again, and then proceeded to issue the medication required there and then. No scripts that you have to take to a pharmacy – walk out with all that you need. This is truly universal health care.
For what comes next, well prepare for an outpouring of hospitality. Total strangers offered to accompany me to the hospital when I went to buy some bottled water – clearly, I must have looked dreadful! Meals and care were generously offered during my recovery by the staff at Wangsel, a heartwarming reminder that I wasn't alone in my ordeal.
So here are my tips for navigating illness in Bhutan:
Private Health Insurance: While Bhutan has recently scrapped the compulsory requirement for visitors to have private health cover, it's still a wise investment. After all, no one wants to rely on a GoFundMe page to get them home. In my opinion, if you can't afford travel insurance, you can't afford to travel.
Ramp Up Your First Aid Kit: Before you leave home - consider it your travel companion on steroids. I upgraded mine with advice from my sister-in-law, a seasoned traveller and pharmacist, stocking up on essentials like Imodium and stronger antibiotics.
Hydrate: Trust me, after a serious bout of dysentery, electrolytes and bottled water become your best friends.
Rest: I've logged about 46 hours of sleep over the past 3 days – my body clearly needed the downtime. Remember everything you want to see and experience will still be there once you get better.
Medical Evacuation: In case of serious injury or illness requiring evacuation, costs can soar. It's a sobering reminder to be prepared for the unexpected. I was surprised during my first illness that the Dr was saying to me over the phone that if they needed to evac me out I would be going to Bangkok – Thankfully AVI has great insurance coverage as you would expect, so check your own policy if you are visiting Bhutan as a tourist.
So there you have it – a glimpse into my journey through illness in Bhutan. Remember, even in the midst of discomfort, there's a silver lining: the kindness of strangers, the resilience of the human spirit, and the assurance that better days lie ahead. Oh and a husband who can make you feel loved even though he is over 7,100km away.
